Choi's Tacos: Muy bien!

(From The Korea Herald, April 5, 2006)

CHEAP EATS
Choi's Tacos: Muy bien!

By Tracey Stark

It's 8 p.m. and the place is packed. There's a line forming outside the takeaway window, the smell of seasoned beef and chicken is wafting through the air and everybody is smiling. Especially Thomas Choi.

He has good reason to smile inside his 11-seat Shinchon restaurant. It's busy and it isn't because of bulgogi or dalk galbi. It's Mexican food he sells; food he learned to cook from a chef in Los Angeles and then later in Mexico City.

"Many Koreans don't know about Mexican food or about our menu," Choi says. "But when they see the ingredients and see me cooking, their eyes get big. Whoa!"

He said he chose Mexican food because it's different, yet it's spicy enough to attract Koreans. The shop is often packed with foreigners craving a little something different as well as younger Koreans.

On this night two well-dressed elderly American couples sat along the far wall under the wooden cutout of Mexico covered with Post-it notes from adoring customers. When they left they praised Choi's cooking and suggested he might even make a good Mexican.

He laughs and moves on to the next four people who immediately fill the empty seats.

I was attempting to go vegetarian for a time and see if I could lose some of my gut. But when he asked if I would have the usual, I couldn't resist. Especially when one of the other cooks was sauteing steak in front of me in Choi's special recipe marinade.

The beef burrito (3,300-4,800 won), medium (there is also a super burrito, which is not for the timid) and the cheese quesadilla (2,500-4,000 won) came hot and fast. Weighing in at close to a pound, I dove in to the burrito with closed eyes and an over-active salivary gland. The taste of refried beans, shredded cheese, seasoned rice, and marinated beef made it the most satisfying event of my week. For variety I got a side of guacamole (700 won).

The quesadillas come in two sizes and can be a meal on their own if you get the larger-sized beef or chicken variety. After I finished my meal I ordered another quesadilla and promised myself a trip to the gym the next day.

Other items include tacos, fajitas, nachos and soft drinks.

Partway through my meal Choi excused himself to go eat dinner - Korean food.

"I had Mexican for lunch," he said and rubbed his ample belly.

Sometime in the near future Choi plans to host an event such as a taco eating contest.

I will admit that all this cheese and sour cream can't be too good for you. So I suggest going no more than four or five times a week.

To get there:
From Shinchon subway station, exit and follow the signs to Yonsei University. Take the smallest of the five roads that meet at Shinchon rotary. Turn right at the first street (opposite Sybarra Records) and walk down the right side about 100 meters.